Matthew Pederson wrote:
Hey, could you post your diagram of the electric work? Something that'd help us figure what wire & where. Thanks!
Below are a photo and a diagram that should better clarify how I wired it up. Let me preface this by saying I've done my research, but I'm not an electrician, and you shouldn't attempt anything like this unless you understand electrical wiring, the hazards, and safety precautions. And of course, you're doing all this wiring with it unplugged from power.
All the parts I bought - the switch, sockets, and AC cable - were pre-wired/stripped, which makes less room for error. The sockets are polarized, meaning they have a "hot" (black) and "neutral" (white) wire, that need to be connected in the correct direction, whereas I color-coded the switch wires the same (pink), because it doesn't matter which direction the switch is wired up.
The green "ground" wire can be attached to the metal pan. (If something ever broke, shorted out, and electrified the pan, the ground wire helps send the electrical current back through the AC cable to minimize electrocution potential.) The "hot" (black) wire from the AC cable is what should be connected to the switch.
I used 4 additional short wires, which are hard to see in the photo, because they're also black. They're color-coded in the diagram as orange, because some of them are on the "hot" side, and some on the "neutral" side. Instead of trying to cram four "hot" socket wires and one wire from the switch into a single wire guard, I used these extra wires to keep a maximum of three wires in each wire guard. (These four wires were the only ones I had to cut and strip.)
Here's the best way to use these wire guards: Take the stripped metal leads from each of the two or three wires, and hold them together by wrapping a piece of electrical tape around their insulation. Then, with your fingers, twist the metal leads together clockwise. Then, twist the wire guard on top, also clockwise, until it's tight. Finally, I wrap a piece of electrical tape around the wire guard just in case. (Don't buy the tiny wire guards; they need lots of space for the three fat wires. I believe this size are usually red.)
This method of wiring is a parallel circuit (versus a serial circuit), meaning even if you take out lights, the other ones will still work. What this means, though, is that the sockets are still electrified without a bulb (when it's plugged in with the switch on), so don't stick your fingers in one of the bulb sockets.